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A pleasant trip out to the mountains behind Calabardina

Cuesta de Gos is a tiny hamlet in the foothills of the mountains behind Águilas and Calabardina, and consists of no more than a scattering of around a dozen houses. The inhabitants of the village used to struggle to make their living from the few crops which could be grown in the arid countryside before irrigation was viable, but nowadays the houses belong mostly to a few families who use them as country retreats.

Cuesta de Gos would be an almost unknown location, were it not for the fact that on 8th March 1926 it was the birthplace of Francisco Rabal, better known as Paco Rabal, whose family left the Region of Murcia when the Civil War broke out in 1936 and moved to Madrid. He soon became interested in the theatre, and went on to become one of Spain’s best known actors and arguably Águilas’ best loved son.

Among the anecdotes concerning his career is that he was originally director William Friedkin’s first choice for the role of the French villain in The French Connection, but his staff mistakenly hired fellow Spanish actor Fernando Rey for the role. In Spain he is admired for his stage and film roles, including the film “Los Santos Inocentes”, for which he won the Best Actor award at the 1984 Cannes Film Festival.

In his later years he took up residence close to his birthplace in Calabardina, and the Centro de Cultura in Águilas is named after him.

A visit to Paco Rabal’s birthplace is an interesting trip out into the countryside of the municipality of Águilas, and at the small church of Cuesta de Gos is a charming statue of the great man as he appeared in some of his last films, sitting on a chair and quietly contemplating the countryside around him. It’s a charming and little seen tribute to a man who made his way from extremely humble beginnings to become one of the most widely respected actors in continental Europe.

The trip can also be combined with a visit to the curious Cabezo de la Cruz next to the church of Garrobillo.

Cuesta de Gos can be approached from Águilas by car in around 20 minutes by heading out of town towards Calabardina on the RM-D14, and then taking the left fork which is signposted towards Garrobillo and the village itself. After approximately 4 kilometres this takes you to the small church of Garrobillo, where unfortunately the signpost indicating that Cuesta de Gos is to the left is well concealed: take this road and within five minutes the road reaches the village.

Alternatively, those approaching from further afield can leave the toll motorway at kilometre 866 and follow the signposts to Calabardina. After no more than a kilometre this takes the motorist to the church of Garrobillo, where a right turn is required. 

For further information visit the home page of Águilas Today.